Destination three · Desert & ocean
A two-hour boat out to rock arches covered in sea lions, Humboldt penguins and more birds than you can hold in your head at once. Cold spray, bright light, and the Candelabro geoglyph carved into the hillside on the way.
Take a jacket, whatever the forecast says.
Empty red-and-ochre desert running straight into the sea, with viewpoints at Playa Roja and La Mina and almost no one else there. It is the most cinematic hour in this part of Peru.
The old bodegas around Ica still press in clay and rest in amphorae. Visit two — one traditional, one modern — and learn the difference between quebranta and italia while someone pours for you.
A real oasis, palms and all, sunk in dunes the size of hills. Buggies over the crests and sandboarding down them, then the light turning the whole desert pink.
Right on the bay, with pools looking straight at the water and boats leaving for the Ballestas from the pier next door. Book a bay-facing room and have breakfast outside.
Sleep in Paracas on the bay and drive into Ica for the day — it is far nicer than the other way round.
Paracas Bay · Our pick
The easiest, prettiest base in the region. Pools on the water, pier for the island boats, excellent breakfast.
Paracas · Smaller
A handful of quiet, low-slung hotels along the same stretch of water.
Ica · For one night
Adobe rooms among the vines, if you would rather wake up in the vineyards.
Ceviche on the bay, then pisco at the source — book the bodega lunch ahead.
Paracas · Lunch on the water
Ceviche, causas and cold beer with your feet more or less in the bay.
Ica · Book ahead
Long tables under the vines, roast meats, and pisco you will want to ship home.
Paracas · Early
Where every Ballestas boat leaves. Aim for the 8:00 AM departure; the sea flattens later.